Thursday, June 4, 2009

Lanusei
















Lanusei
Caught the 09:15 bus to Lanusei and arrived at the hostel at 12:45, exactly 15 minutes prior to the reception desk closing for a 4 hour siesta. We also wanted to visit the tourist information bureau before siesta, so we dropped our bags in our room, and rushed back downstairs and out the side door and rang the bell for the tourist information bureau which happens to be located immediately next door to the hostel. The lady who checked us into the hostel, leaned out of the hostel door and told us that she was also the one who ran the tourist information bureau and she had already prepared a package of pamphlets and booklets for us in anticipation of our arrival. We walked around a little bit of the hilly town exploring the nearby constantly curving streets, but eveything was closed for siesta. After enjoying a light meal at a restaurant with a great view of the valley below, we headed back to our hostel to partake in the ritualistic siesta as well. All the shops resumed activity at 17:00, and we bought some provisions for antipasti as well as some fruit and juice for tomorrow's breakfast. We went to four different shops before we found bread...eveyone's bread baskets were empty. The 3rd shop keeper said that we could find some bread down the road a little bit a la sinistra, we said, no everyone was out of bread. She was incredulous, and walked out to the sidewalk and yelled across the street to some old lady sweeping her doorstill and asked if she had any bread to which the old lady yelled back in the affirmative. So, we crossed the street and found our bread. The nice thing about travelling at this time of year is that there are very few tourists on the road which means that we have been finding ourselves nearly all alone in these big places designed to accomadate many dozens of people. Here there is only one other middle-aged couple from Newcastle who are on the next floor. So, we each have an entire floor to ourselves, and because the staff do not stay here at night, we are all alone in this huge place after 7 p.m.
Lanusei Day 2
Fresh bread was aplenty this morning at the alimentaria which opens at 07:00 next to our hostel. And, thus, we were able to enjoy delicious fresh bread for breakfast with our cheese, jam and coffee. After breakfast, One of the park wardens at the archaeological park of Selene picked us up at the hostel and drove us up to the Nuraghic ruins above Lanusei about 1100 meters above the sea. |In case you were ever wondering, but were afraid to ask, here's the common evolutionary chronology presented at all of the museums of the mediterranean islands we've visted so far:
Paleolithic Period: 500,000 to 10,000 B.C.
Mesolithic: 10,000 to 6000 B.C.
Neolithic: 6,000 to 2700 B.C. (the temple people of Malta thrived during this period and suddenly disappeared without a trace and for reasons unknown)
Eneolithic: 2700 to 1800 B.C.
Bronze Age: 1800 to 900 B.C. (the Nuraghic people thrived toward the end of this period...also during this period, new tribes took possession of the abandoned temples in Malta)
Iron Age: 900 to 750 B.C.
Eastern Age: 750 to 510 B.C.
Archaic Age: 510 to 238 B.C. (The Phoenicians and Carthaginians dominated the Mediterranean which marks the decline of the Nuraghi who fled to the high central hills to preserve themselves from annihilation)
Roman Era: 238 B.C. to 476 A.D. (end of the Nuraghic peoples)
Vandals: 476 to 550 A.D.
It is interesting to note just how much effort the Nuraghic people went to bury their dead. The temples of huge rocks were errected with no small effort and were specifically used to bury people. This is surely an indication of the overwhelming importance death held in their culture.
Because it was such a belissima giurnata today, we decide to walk back to the hostel from the park. We descended about 500 meters in 2 km which is a very steep decline. I believe today is the first time that I actually wanted to stop to take a break going downhill. When we approached Lanusei and saw an uphill climb ahead, it cam, surprisingly, as a relief to our legs.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Last Day in Cagliari



















Last day in Cagliari
Visited the Museo Archeologico and the Pinateca today. An excellent collection of artifacts from the early neo-lithic period, the Phoenicians, the Bronze age, the Nuraghic period, the Punic Age, a little on the Greeks and finally much more on the Romans. Outside the mueso, we saw an amazing tree with thorns all over the bark on the branches and trunk. Definitely not a tree to rub up against. We'll get an early start to Lanusei tomorrow morning. According to the website of the hostel (La Nuova Luna), internet is not available, so the next blog entry may be delayed.
ciao for now

Cagliari 2nd supplement















Cagliari 2nd supplement
more pics...visited the Phoenician underground grotto which couldn't possibly be captured with my camera. It is a conical shaped opening underground with smooth walls from floor to ceiling. The acousitics are fantastic. Any note emitted is retained as a constantly clear recurring echo for as long as the original emission. We were lucky to be there by ourselves. The guide book says that the grotto is below the botanical gardens. We had assumed this meant, lower down the hill. but in fact it is underground and vertically below the gardens. the gate was ajar, and we entered, but it was pitch black inside and could only approach slowly by taking intermediate photos with the flash to find our way through the winding passageway which we quickly realized was a painfully slow way of making progress. So, we exited and noticed an electrical panel on the wall just inside the gate with the words "non toccare". We asked one of the grounds keepers about this, and he told us that it was closed in the afternoons and we would have to return in the mnorning. On the way out, we mentioned this to the ticket vendor at the gate of the botanical garden, and he said "no. no...it's ok...turn them all on. So, we returned to the grotto's gateway and did so.

Cagliari 2






















Cagliari...day 2
Unfortunately, the Trenino Verde (the famous narrow gauge train which runs through the mountains inland) doesn't begin operation until mid-June, and the national train doesn't run to Lanusei, so we booked an inter-city bus instead for June 3rd. We also booked our ferry from Porto Torres to Propriano for June 11th. Afterwards, we wandered around the city again and visited a few churches which were open. Early morning rain kept the air cool, but as soon as the clouds dispersed around 10:00, the temperature immediately rose to about 30 degrees again. Picked up some bread, coldcuts, cheese, bread and fruits and made ourselves an excellent lunch within the shade of the hostel's quadrangle.